Chemistry of Dyeing

Vat dyes are a class of dyes that are classified as such because of the method by which they are applied. Vat dyeing is a process that refers to dyeing that takes place in a bucket or vat. Almost any dye, including fiber-reactive dyes, direct dyes, and acid dyes, can be used in a vat dye. Cotton, wool, and other fibers can be all dyed with vat dyes. The original vat dye is indigo, once obtained from plants but now produced synthetically.

 

Dyeing process

Vat dyes characteristically require a reducing agent to solubilize them. The most common reducing agent is sodium dithionite , which converts the dye to its "leuco" form that is soluble. Once attached to the fabric, the leuco dye is then oxidized to the insoluble state which is intensely colored. Chemical reactions such asoxidation, reduction, pH control are often necessary; even the dissolution process necessitates measuring out appropriate quantities of caustic soda and sodium hydrosulphite in order to achieve reduction. The dye is soluble only in its reduced (oxygen-free) form. The fiber is immersed repeatedly in this oxygen-free dyebath, then exposed to the air, whereupon the water-soluble reduced form changes color as oxygen turns it to the water-insoluble form. For these reasons, vat dyes are less suitable than fiber-reactive dyes for amateur use.

Indigo is an example of this dye class: it changes from yellow, in the dyebath, to green and then blue as the air hits it.

Not all vat dyeing is done with vat dyes. 

 

Properties

The vat dyes have high color fastness, which is uncommon in other dye classes. On the other hand, vat dyes tend to have poor rubbing fastness, but this can be mitigated with special treatments to the fabric. Indigo is subject to major crocking (i.e., rubbing the dye off onto other items) unless it is applied carefully. This means use a weaker dyebath, and dipping many times, rather than a single strong dipping.